I would never claim to know what the best places to eat in Ubud are.
Six days is a relatively long time in the backpacker’s world, but it’s certainly not long enough to eat in all of the great restaurants and cafes on offer.
However, I can still make a few solid recommendations. And as usual, they are mostly slightly out of the way, just because of our general tendency to feel sorry for quiet-looking places. And as usual, this technique has been generally rewarded by great food, and cheap cheap prices.
Jl. Made Lebah No.36, Peliatan, Ubud, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80571
Starting off with the best, Siboghana Waroeng is an absolutely glorious secret that I almost hope will never be discovered.
It’s an all-vegan warung tucked away in a side street, accessed literally through a car park. It is unassuming, always quiet, and quite simply serves some of the best food that I tasted in Bali. And it’s incredibly, almost unbelievably cheap.
Everything is made from scratch so you will have to wait a while for your food, but trust me it is worth the wait. And you can always stave off the hunger pangs by checking out the artwork displayed in the upstairs room.
Try: Kari Siboghana was the highlight dish for me, but honestly everything on the menu was delicious. If you can’t decide, go for the Nasi Campur – this has a bit of everything.
Cost: £ / about 100k rupiah for 3 dishes plus a large beer.
Jalan Hanoman, Ubud, Gianyar, Bali
At the complete other end of the scale is Atman café, located on Jl. Hanoman near the centre of town. Ubud is half tiny, local stalls and warungs, and half hipster cafes catering to the yoga-loving vegan gluten free crowd. This is very much the latter.
(No judgements, I am absolutely of that target market. Although I am bad at yoga and am neither vegan nor gluten free).
There are actually two locations for Atman café, one being vegetarian, but both are on the same street and both are probably equally as good. We visited the veggie one, and luxuriated in the dark, cool interior, ordered some pretentious food and sat pretentiously cross legged on one of the low benches inside, looking out over the rice paddy field.
It was wonderful.
Try: The avocado toast is perfectly proportioned (i.e. more avo than toast), and the smoothie bowls are magical. Everything is served on pretty wooden boards or out of pretty wooden bowls (the same kind that you can buy from the market) – perfect for that Insta shot that you know you want.
Cost: £££ / about 150k for two small dishes plus coffee
Kedai Roti Canai & Teh Tarik Kak Rose
Next to JR Waroeng ‘n’ Resto, Jl. Made Lebah, Peliatan, Ubud, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80571 (not even existent on Google Maps!)
Another fantastic discovery nearby our hotel, I would thoroughly recommend this petite café with the absurdly long name.
The menu is all in Balinese/Indonesian with no English translation (great fun), so either go armed with Google translate or throw caution to the wind with your order.
The basic premise of this restaurant is that you get a roti canai (flatbread cooked on a hot plate) or martabak (kind of like a giant spring roll or deep fried pancake) with various stuffings and fillings. You can get them sweet or savoury, and there are loads of combos to choose from. It is SUPER cheap, and very filling – good for a quick bite of an evening. However, they do get quite busy with takeaway orders from locals so if you time it badly you might be waiting a while!
Try: The onion cheese & egg combo was great in a roti (telur keju bawang)
Cost: £ / about 40k for two meals
Jl. Sriwedari No.2, Ubud, Gianyar, Kabupaten Gianyar, Bali 80571
We stumbled across this cute little place while wandering aimlessly around the main streets of Ubud. It is located just off the main shopping street, Jl. Raya Ubud, and provides a fab little stop to sit and watch the chaos while being slightly removed from it.
You can sit upstairs and look over the street from the balcony, or when we were there they were offering a 10% discount if you sit at the bar (presumably to encourage more custom).
They brew their own drinks, which are displayed enticingly in big glass containers – and they will give you a little sample if you ask nicely. The puddings and desserts all looked tasty too, though we didn’t try any of them ourselves.
Try: one of the cakes out of the display cabinet, or one of their home-brews!
Cost: ££ / about 60k for two drinks
Located at the end of the Campuhan ridge walk, signposted all the way! Seriously. All. The. Way.
What more could you want at the end of a sweaty 3km walk than this little oasis of bliss in the middle of the rice paddies?
This place really is a sight for sore eyes: your typical Balinese decor, with a straw roof and ceiling fans, and several separate huts situated in shallow ponds just outside of the main cafe.
They also have a spa on-site – and it’s a pretty idyllic spot, so you’d definitely be forgiven for wanting to get a quick massage at the end of your walk.
Cost: ££ / about 60k for two drinks
The local fruit stall!
One of the best meals we had was actually just from buying fruit from a stall down the road.
You can get so much fruit and veg for unbelievably good value, so I’d definitely recommend doing this for a bit of a change of routine.
As someone who has just come from Australia, the price (and quality!) of avocadoes in Bali has been an absolute dream. Get twenty. I would.
Try: the little bananas – so much more flavourful than their European counterparts
Cost: £ / about 40k for more fruit than you can carry (we got a mango, a dragonfruit, two avocadoes and a bunch of bananas)
There are loads of great places to choose from in Ubud, so you won’t struggle to find good eating. However, if you need to be steered in the right direction, these places are a good start!
Costs are obviously all relative – just because I have put £££ does not mean that it is actually expensive, just that compared with other things it is more pricey!
For reference, 50k Indonesia rupiah is about £3 or $5AUD.